GAUDETE, Gaudi!

An old friend once remarked that “you can’t lie with architecture”.  This is proven once again by the Bl. Antoni Gaudí, the aptly-named architect who ornamented this city a hundred years ago. His works smile, just as the Catalans do. (Just catch their eye and they nod and smile. It is almost like being in Thailand.) His great church, the Basilica of the Holy Family is all about the joy of creation. (He was so devout that he is called "God's architect", and he was beatified in 2000.) The Gothic-inspired design is what looks like late, flamboyant style so hot it melted. But, while the stones of flamboyant turn into fire, in the alchemy of theological architecture, Gaudí’s pillars become organic, living things. The finials turn into reeds and fruit. The columns become palm trees. All this celebrates the joy of creation, typified by the Nativity. The whole building smiles at its visitors – and they smile back. It is almost impossible to feel grumpy around this building.

The same is true of the Park Güell (pron: well), where Gaudí lived. 

At the turn of the last century, he was commissioned to design a housing development on a hill overlooking the city and the sea. It never worked out, and Señor Güell, the developer, gave it to the City for a park, 

but there are lots of Gaudí buildings, mostly walls and colonnades that look like trees, fountains, and whimsical sculptures with lots of brightly-colored mosaic tile-work. Above the main gate, there is a large plaza, which is the roof of what was to have been the market for the development. This lower floor is a dense forest of fantastic pillars, reminding one of the mosque at Córdova. The balustrade of the big plaza is am irregularly curving bench decorated with mosaic ceramic tile. It is designed ergonomically, so this enormous stone bench is really very comfortable to sit on.

On this holiday Saturday (Thursday, La Puríssima, is a national holiday and it seems that everybody takes  Friday off, too), there are lots of Catalans and tourists hanging out with children running around and musicians playing for tips. A fine flamenco dancer, small string groups, a saddhu with five dogs, playing a flute, and something like a steel drum.

You can tour Gaudí’s small house where his furniture is on exhibit. It is also inspired by living plants. 

This place is art nouveau paradise! The people seem to be just as happy as the architecture. I can see why everyone falls in love with Barcelona – it’s like San Francisco without the attitude!

This is really an appropriate way to spend the eve of  Gaudete Sunday!