Mozarabic Toledo

Retablo of the high altar

The cathedral chapter of Toledo celebrates a solemn high mass every day. Except for the Sanctus, in Latin, it was all in Spanish, so I am not exactly sure what was going on before and after – some kind of office. I think I recognized the Benedictus of Lauds before the Kyrie, and then there was something after the Blessing at the end, which involved another offering of incense. This is advertized as the Mozarabic Rite, but I couldn’t tell the difference. Must be something to do with the actual wording of the mass itself.

Anyway, it was pretty colorful. Two concelebrants, an MC, a cantor, and about a dozen canons. The latter vest in cassock and surplice, with a great capa nigra, whichi isn’t entirely nigra, because there is scarlet velvet trim, including a kind of bib. [At first, I thought it was a cowl, but it doesn’t go around the back.] The celebration was in the Lady Chapel, which also serves as the sacrament chapel. A high dome surmounts the completely baroque space. All marble (green and red) with gilded capitals and ornaments. I am happy to say that the altar arrangements are just like Holy Trinity and St. Anskar: floor-model bier candles at either end of the massive stone mensa, whuich has obviously bee moved out from its retablo so as to accommodate the sedilla. The big difference is that here everything appears to be made of solid gold. From bier candles to processional crucifix [standing to the epistle side in front], to the elaborate arch of intertwining vines that surmounts the sedentary statue of our Lady and her Son. The statue itself appears to be solid silver.

The chant was fine. I couldn’t really tell whether the tones were of modern composition or more traditional. There was a minor flavor, so maybe they were the Mozarbic part. Anyway, I went to Communion.

Toledo is lovely, medieval, charming in every way- as long as one keeps one’s mind off the inquisition and on San Fernando! Sometimes I think we Americans have absorbed the English view of the Spanish and their Church. Philip II wanted to claim the English throne and burn Elizabeth as a heretic. We remember the horrors that Spain committed yet tend to excuse those of the English. And, after all, England expelled its Jews quite a bit before Spain did. Still, with all allowances made, Toledo does not exude happy vibes for me. And the the mystical simplicity of the old synagogue still surpasses the opulent display of the Cathedral. The osternsorium is, indeed, aptly named.

Bigger is Better ~ solid gold, too!