If you ever find yourself in Captain Cook, HI (just south of
Kona on the Big Island), don’t miss the Mahina
Café, and be sure to try the Hawai’ian Plate – a tasting menu of indigenous
foods – mostly pork, cooked in various ways that taste really distinct. Mahina means “moon”, as our server
explained. Rachel is a native Hawai’ian, who is very well-informed about the
state’s history. The indigenous people have a lunar calendar, much like the
plains Indians, in which each moon has a name. Together with the stars, especially
the Pleiades, the moons guide the agricultural life. (We are now in the Harvest
Moon.)
Rachel explained
that pigs came to the islands (along with dogs, taro, and bananas) with the very
first settlers, whose origin is unknown – somewhere in Polynesia, around
1500 years ago.
Replica of ancient Polynesian ship
The various dishes in the sampling plate are traditional to
the luau, and traditionally cooked underground.
Upper right: shredded pork and beef (laulau), wrapped first in taro leaf and then in ti leaf for
underground cooking.
Lower-left, shredded pork. White cube, taro-root flan.
One of them is smoked with the wood of a Hawai’an tree similar to mesquite. It produces prickly
thorns, however, and the native joke is that the Europeaans brought it not just
to feed the cattle with its beans, but to force the Hawai’ians not to go
barefoot!
I told
Rachel about Bishop Whipple and our devotion to Queen Emma. She seemed happy to
hear it. She observed that the conquest of Hawai’i followed immediately upon
the subjugation of the plains Indians, and the history (deracination,
linguistic suppression, deportation, and boarding schools) was similar. She
also pointed out that by the end of the 19th century, there were
only about 40,000 Hawai’ians left. Since most of the were eope of some meansa, there
are plenty of pretenders, nowadays, to chiefdom (ai’i) and royalty. Most well-known is Prince Quentin Kawananakoa,
Vesture is royal, rather than academic, I think (see below).
Also heir to one of the largest mainlander planters (James
Campbell), Prince Kawananakoa was a member of the State
Legislature and erstwhile minority leader. He has never been elected to national
office, perhaps because he is a Republican, which seems a little odd for a
royal pretender!
Possibly
because of this kind of anomaly, a cousin of Kamehameha the Great, five times
removed, Prince Noa Kalokuokamile (Kalokuokamile III) is supported by some. .
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