No Walk: BEAR!

The overnight train to Mt. Abu was festive and exotic, with old-fashioned Pullman berths that accommodated a rocking, though intermittent sleep. 6:20 found us at our stop, for the short bus ride up into the ancient mountains, which Rahul, our guide, assures us are the oldest in the world. Anyway, they produce a rain shadow, so that on the east, it is relatively fertile, but the west is arid and actual desert.

They also provide a relief from the summer hear, so the rich built villas and palaces up near the top of the range. One of these is now a heritage hotel. Originally the summer house of the Maharaja of Birkaner, who was also known as “the people’s maharaja” because of hus many good works, the Palace Hotel is really a taste of the Raj. To step into it as a guest is like stepping into a Merchant-Ivory film. Liveried servants are never far, eager to fulfill one’s slightest wish. The only problem is that their English vocabulary is severely limited, mostly to words directly associated with the hotel services (toast, jam, tea, coffee, laundry, &c.) If the conversation (or request) strays beyond these limits, the One of them, Doansingh, seems to be in charge of my room and well-being.

My room is a luxury suite in a separate building, adjacent to the main palace. Porch in front, enormous terrace in back, entrance hall, big sitting-room/bedroom with 20’ celings , from which circulating fans are depended, fireplace, sofas, desks, many electrical plugs (thank God for my Japanese adapter), high windows with shutters, inner and outer curtains that billow reassuringly in the breeze, dressing alcove next to the marble bathroom – and all at a price well below a motel beside the interstate in the USA!

There is a nature preserve with crocodiles and leopards. Becasue it is a sanctuary and nto a zoo, the animals are free to go. Sharif related that as he started out for a stroll before bed, a turbanned figure loomed out of the shadows.

"Where go?"

"I'm going for a walk."

"No walk. BEAR!"

I hadn't heard of gbears, but perhaps it was as close as the servant could get to leopard.

There is also one of the real wonders of the world: a Jain Temple built in the 11^th century. It is really a complex of five temples, in a big close. The most remarkable feature is the stone carving. All white marble, every square inch is covered in intricate sculpture, from miniature to fully life-sized. It is astounding and indescribable. Thousands of artists worked on it, over a period of fifteen years.

If the Jains are a diminishing sect, it may have something to do with the fact that they do not accept converts – you have to be born a Jain.) Their origins go back to the 5^th Century BC. They are best known for their custom, when going to a temple or shrine, to sweep the way before them with a peacock fan, and to wear a mask, so as to avoid harming any insects. They are very big on ahimsa (harmlessness), but it seems this sensibility does not extend to oneself.

For Jain monks not only go naked, as a sign of complete renunciation of possession, a few also starve themselves to feath, once they have attained all that can be expected in the way of spiritual progress i this life. The fast is gentle, ritualized, and well-monitored. Every day, the ascetic is asked whether s/he wishes to turn back. The Jains are vey much opposed to suicide, but this is not considered suicide. Far from it. It is the highest form of religious practice, leading directly into the realm of light. It is said that Mahatma Gandhi was influenced by Jainism, especially their exalted notion of ahimsa, which extends even to the thoughts.